Showing posts with label London Fashion Week. Show all posts
Showing posts with label London Fashion Week. Show all posts

Tuesday, 22 September 2009

Small but perfectly informed

Anna Wintour, fearsome editor of Vogue magazine, should be looking nervously over her shoulder right now. Because there's a thirteen year-old girl creeping up behind her, and she's not here to sell girl scout cookies.

This gawky, weird-looking 13 year-old is currently being touted as this season's fashion must-have, thanks to her hugely successful fashion blog 'Style Rookie'. While most of her contemporaries are still writing odes to their teddy bears and colour-coding the contents of their pencil case, Tavi Gevinson is sharing her opinions on what's hot and what's not. And the fashion world, never the easiest clique to penetrate, is sitting up and taking notice.

Looking like the dorky best friend in the flashback scenes of your standard chick flick, this curiously self-possessed tween has been spending the last few days gracing the front row of New York Fashion Week. It doesn't seem to matter that her bold fashion ensembles remind most people of a child raiding her mother's closet while her parents are out, she's scoring over 1.5 million hits a month and counting.

Although some of her posts show an awareness beyond her years, not all of them are well composed thought-pieces. Her review of Marc Jacobs' Monday night show read:

MAAAAAAARRRRRRRCCCCCCCC
What. an. insane. night.
Like I said before, the real review in which I articulate will be at my Pop blog, but for now?
KJWRHGAROIGREIYT598YTUREIGJFVKDSNVLKFDSNVKJFDHKDFNBLKFD

Similarly, much of the extensive photography that features on her blog resembles the kind of images usually captured when the lens cap is accidentally left off and the camera gets sat on.

Nonetheless, she's bold, confident and successful, even if she still needs to ask for a grown-up's help when using scissors. And I can't help but have a grudging respect for any teenager willing to leave the house looking like an Amish child with a pair of superhero's underpants stuck to her head.

If anyone's going to lead the way in fashion industry, it may as well be a pencil-thin 13 year-old. After all, she's one of the few people left who'd be able to fit into any of the fashion houses' increasingly unrealistic samples.

Sunday, 20 September 2009

Bigger is better, apparently

It's all kicking off at London Fashion Week, as a row has erupted over the size of models used in one of the shows.

The world of fashion is no stranger to body image controversy, as the debate has been raging for years over the industry's irresponsible use of underweight models. In 2006 Madrid Fashion Week banned size zero models from its catwalks, over concerns that models with a Body Mass Index of less than 18 were in serious danger.

Of course, not everyone agreed with this judgement - all of them more concerned with lost revenue than people's health and wellbeing. For instance, Cathy Gould of New York's Elite modelling agency claimed that the fashion industry was just a scapegoat. Gould maintained that she was standing up for 'gazelle-like' models who would face unnecessary discrimination in light of these industry changes. Sadly she missed the point that all these waifs would need to do to overcome any discrimination was stop eating toilet paper and maybe try a pie instead.

Something clearly needed to be done, following the tragic deaths of Luisel Ramos, Ana Carolina Reston, and Eliana Ramos who all suffered from chronic eating disorders.

Unfortunately, three years later very little has changed. In June of this year, Vogue editor Alexandra Shulman sent a letter to the major fashion houses, critising them for supplying clothes for photoshoots in increasingly tiny sizes and forcing magazines to use models who weigh little more than their own shadow. In reply, the designers blamed the magazines, model agencies and stylists for not booking bigger models. If any of them had half-a-brain between them, they'd know that this is what chess players call a stalemate.

Thankfully, this week it looked like the industry was finally ready to turn a corner, as designer Mark Fast decided to go first and use 'larger' models to showcase his new knitwear designs. Obviously 'larger' is a comparative term - it's not like he was wrapping Beth Ditto in a woollen dress. The models he chose were size 12 and 14, and to the untrained eye simply looked like healthy, attractive women, rather than the visitors from Close Encounters of the Third Kind. But not everyone saw it that way.

Repulsed at the sight of actual human hips rather than a jutting pelvis, Fast's stylist quit and stormed out the day before the show, citing the age-old excuse 'creative differences'. Thankfully, with the help of a freelance stylist who stepped in at the last minute, the show did indeed go on and by all accounts was a huge success.

So what happens now? It's doubtful that Donatella will be programming Dawn French's number into her speed-dial. But if we all cross our pudgy fingers and hope for the best, the most influential trend to emerge from this year's fashion week might be the advent of human-shaped models, rather than the coat-hangers with hair that we're used to.